Cauliflower Apple Hand Pies

In the eternal cake versus pie debate, I will defend the rights of pie to the death. I will challenge cake to a duel. I will tell cake that it's mother was a hamster and it's father smelt of elderberries. I am Team Pie all the way.

Naturally there are exceptions to this rule. Carrot cake, cheesecake, (although not technically a cake) angel food cake, apple cake... those are all generally fine by me. But most other cakes are just so heavy. And frosting tends to be cloyingly sweet. And frankly, I find cake... boring.

This is a genetic issue, I'm sure of it. My grandmother, who died before I was born, was quite the master pie-baker. She passed along her recipes to my Uncle Jim, who has since been adorning our holiday tables with the most delectable varieties of flaky-crusted pies. Apple, pumpkin, strawberry rhubarb, concord grape... it's hard to pick a favorite out of Uncle Jim's repertoire.

Uncle Jim doesn't shy away from more savory pies, either: his mincemeat pie balances delicately on the line between dinner and dessert, infinitely satisfying.

So when my CSA gifted me some gorgeous cauliflower and I discovered this Martha Stewart recipe, I just knew I had to continue the family tradition by adapting it into my own pie that skirted that line between sweet and savory. Oh, these pies most definitely fall more on the savory side of the spectrum, but the tart-sweet apples and the creamy hazelnuts mellow out the herbed crust and the roasted cauliflower and the sharp cheddar cheese I've packed in.

And did I mention they're adorable? Individually sized, easily re-heatable-- these pies are perfect to throw into your bag for a quick autumn lunch. You may find yourself with a little filling left over after you stuff the crusts. Not to fret-- simply toss the roasted cauliflower, apple chunks and hazelnut paste along with some shredded sharp cheddar in a little warm pasta and you just might swoon from an autumn mouthgasm.

Bain taitneamh as do bheil!

PREP TIME: about 45 minutes

COOKING TIME: about 1 hour

MAKES: about eleven 4 inch diameter pies

INGREDIENTS:

for the filling:

• 1 small head cauliflower, cut into very small pieces (about 4 cups)
• 6 tablespoons olive oil, divided
• 2/3 cup hazelnuts
• 2-3 medium shallots, cut into 1/2" dice (about 1/2 cup)
• 3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
• 1 large Granny Smith apple, cut into 1/4" dice (about 2 cups)
• 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
• sea salt and freshly cracked pepper, to taste
• 11 1/4" thick slices sharp cheddar cheese

for the crust:

• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 1/4 cups whole wheat flour, plus a little more for rolling
• 1 teaspoon fresh chives, finely minced
• 1 teaspoon fresh savory, finely minced (substitute thyme if you can't get your hands on savory)
• 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, finely minced
• 1 teaspoon sea salt
• 3/4 cup unsalted butter, cut into small chunks
• 1 large egg, yolk and white separated
• 1/4-1/2 cup ice water

DIRECTIONS:

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. In a large bowl, toss chopped cauliflower with 3 tablespoons olive oil and a sprinkle of sea salt and freshly cracked pepper. Spread cauliflower on a sheet tray.
2. If working with unroasted, skin-on hazelnuts, spread them out on a separate sheet tray. Place both the cauliflower and the hazelnuts in the oven. Roast the hazelnuts for 5-10 minutes, checking frequently for browning. Once browned, immediately remove from oven and place in a towel. Vigorously rub skins off hazelnuts and set aside. (Skip this step if you can get your hands on roasted, skinned hazelnuts)
3. Roast cauliflower for 20-30 minutes, stirring once or twice until an even browning is achieved. Remove from oven and set aside.
4. While the cauliflower is roasting, make the pie crusts: Add all purpose flour, wheat flour, minced herbs, salt and butter chunks to food processor bowl. Pulse until a coarse meal forms. Add egg yolk and pulse to combine. (Set aside egg white). With the food processor running, gradually stream in ice water until dough just forms a ball. Tightly wrap ball in plastic and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes. Wipe out food processor bowl with a damp towel.
5. Heat up 1/2 tablespoon of olive oil in a skillet until the surface begins to shimmer. Add shallots and saute until soft and slightly browned. Add garlic and saute for one minute more, taking care not to brown garlic.
6. Place roasted hazelnuts and sauteed shallot and garlic in a food processor. With the food processor running, stream 2 1/2 tablespoons olive oil through the top until a smooth paste is achieved, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar and a sprinkle of salt & pepper. Pulse to combine.
7. On a lightly floured surface, cut chilled dough ball in half. Roll out to 1/4" thickness and with a round pastry cutter, cut 4" circles. Set circles aside and repeat with the other half of the chilled dough. You should end up with about 22 circles, enough for 11 pies.
8. Assemble the pies: Brush the edges of 11 circles with egg white. Spread a teaspoon or so of hazelnut paste over the circle, leaving room at the edges. Top with a teaspoon of roasted cauliflower and a few apple chunks. Place a slice of cheddar cheese over the vegetables. Top with another dough round, pressing along the edges with a fork to seal. Brush the top of the pie with egg white.
9. Bake pies on rimmed sheet trays lined with parchment paper for 30 minutes, or until crust is golden. Consider yourself officially a pie person, and congratulate yourself for never having to answer THIS question: