Roasted Cabbage Gratin

Despite my heritage, I've never been a cabbage fan. I shied away from it's sulphurous smell, it's limp cooked texture and it's reputation for causing, erhm, gastrointestinal distress.

But as with most new things I'm trying these days, my CSA is pushing me to experiment with long-hated vegetables. The sight of two small-ish cabbages in this week's basket prompted me to exclaim "They look just like big brussel sprouts!" which of course served to remind me how much I love roasted brussel sprouts. Duh. Why hadn't I put that together before?
And with that metaphorical slap upside the head from Mother Nature, an idea was born. Why not combine roasted cabbage and leeks (another frequent guest in our current CSA baskets) with some cream and cheese and pop that whole delicious mess in the oven with a crispy top? Mmmmm, gratins. So warming, so filling, so decadent without actually being all that bad for you.
German food has become quite trendy, and although I'm not eating bratwurst or schnitzel these days, the flavor profiles of German cuisine make me all nostalgic for that summer I spent in Tuttlingen, Baden-Wurttemberg. I was sixteen years old, and it was the first time I was away from home for longer than a few days. Every morning I would get a soft pretzel the size of my head for breakfast, and on the weekends I would sip beer from huge steins, hating the taste but reveling in the fact that it was legal for me to drink it over there.

My wonderful host sister, Petra Huber, shared her room with me and urged me to try all of the exotic (to me) food served at her family's table. She also urged to speak German all the time, so I would learn it. ("Deutsch macht Spass!")

Sadly, I've lost touch with Petra. I feel like I never properly thanked her and her family for showing me such a wonderful time. (If you're reading this, Petra-- danke schoen!) This recipe is dedicated to the Huber family and the town of Tuttlingen, for giving me one of the most memorable, wonderful summers of my life.

And in the spirit of community, I must give props to two great ladies who helped to take this recipe from tasty to wunderbar. My pastry chef Davina urged me to include the mustard and a random run-in at the farmer's market with the lovely Marisa led to an awesome conversation about cabbage (she thinks they're just big brussel sprouts too!) and the suggestion that I include some apple cider vinegar in this gratin.

I am so very lucky to have the coolest cheese shop, Di Bruno Bros, right down the street from my house. Their cheesemongers plied me with several samples of delicious German cheeses, and I ended up choosing a Bergkase from Austria. If you can't locate a Bergkase, an Emmental or even a Gruyere would be absolutely lovely.

Guten appetit!

PREP TIME: about 30 minutes

COOKING TIME: about 1 hour 30 minutes

MAKES: about six 1 cup servings

INGREDIENTS:

for the gratin:

• 1 large or 2 small heads cabbage, cut into even wedges, leaving core intact (yields about 4 cups of roasted, chopped cabbage)
• 1/4 cup plus 1 teaspoon olive oil, divided
• 2 leeks, tough green parts discarded, cut in half lengthwise and then cut into half-rounds (about 4 cups)
• 3 large cloves garlic, minced (about 1 tablespoon)
• 1/2 cup half & half
• 1 1/2 teaspoons stone-ground prepared mustard
• 1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika
• 1 cup grated Bergkase (substitute Emmentaler or Gruyere)
• 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
• sea salt and freshly cracked pepper, to taste

for the topping:

• 1 cup panko-style bread crumbs (for a gluten-free gratin, substitute a crushed rice cereal like this)
• 1/4 cup grated Bergkase
• 2 teaspoons olive oil
• sea salt and freshly cracked pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS:

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Place cabbage wedges in a large bowl. Drizzle 1/4 cup olive oil plus a sprinkle of salt and pepper over wedges and gently toss to thoroughly coat.
2. Arrange cabbage wedges on an oiled sheet tray and place in the oven. Roast for 20-30 minutes, or until browned on the bottom. Flip wedges over and roast for another 20-30 minutes to achieve equal caramelization on both sides.
3. While the cabbage is roasting, place cut leeks in a large bowl of cold water. Agitate gently, separating layers and ensuring that any trapped dirt is released and falls to the bottom of the bowl. With a slotted spoon, remove leeks from water and gently press with a towel to blot away moisture.
4. Heat up 1 teaspoon olive oil in a skillet. When the surface begins to shimmer, add leeks and saute until translucent and slightly browned. Add minced garlic and saute for one minute more, taking care not to let garlic burn.
5. In a medium bowl, whisk together half & half, mustard and smoked paprika.
6. When cabbage is roasted, remove from oven and allow to cool. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
7. Chopped cooled cabbage into bite-sized pieces, discarding cabbage cores. Toss roasted cabbage with apple cider vinegar. In a large bowl, combine cabbage, grated cheese and half & half mixture. Stir to thoroughly incorporate.
8. Place cabbage mixture in a small (mine is about 9" in diameter) oiled casserole dish and press down gently to compact. Cover and place in the oven for 20 minutes, or until mixture is thoroughly warmed through and cheese is melty.
9. While cabbage mixture is in the oven, prepare the topping: in a large bowl toss panko-style bread crumbs or crushed rice cereal with 1/4 cup grated cheese, 2 teaspoons olive oil and salt & pepper, to taste.
10. Remove cabbage mixture from oven and spread crumb topping evenly over the top. Bake, uncovered, until topping is browned. (About 10-20 minutes, depending on your oven)
11. Serve with a dry Gewurztraminer and toast with a hearty German "Auf Ihre Gesundheit!"